Buzzard's Roost

Everyday hundreds if not thousands of Douglas County residents cross the Chattahoochee River to reach work or school via the 92, 166, Bankhead Highway or Interstate 20 bridges.

I've crossed the river numerous times myself - most of the time with hardly a thought to the water flowing underneath me.

I think, "Oh, there's the bridge...the river..." and then on to other thoughts as I zoom along.

I would imagine most of us never get any closer to the river that makes up a portion of Douglas County's geographical borders than our car windows.

What about you?

Sadly, I was never allowed to participate in the great raft river races on the Chattahoochee during the late 1970s like many of my friends. In fact, the closest I've gotten to the Chattahoochee River has been to stroll along the stretch that passes by Ray's on the River after Sunday brunch or from the patio at Canoe during lunch, and then there was the impromptu instance last summer when I made the Mister walk to the middle of the 92 bridge to snap a few pictures. 

You should have seen me attempting to dodge dead animals on the side of the bridge and try  NOT to fall over the side since heights make me dizzy (that bridge railing is not as high as you might think) while trying NOT to fall into the line of traffic (it would seem everyone is speeding these days).

The view of the river seen above is looking up towards Atlanta.

The river doesn't just serve as a geographic border for Douglas County. It figures prominently in our history, of course, going all the way back to our early Native American history before there was a Douglas County and even before there was a Campbell County.

In fact, per The River Keeper's Guide to the Chattahoochee River by Fred Brown evidence of both Woodland (1,000 B.C. to 900 A.D.) and Mississippian (900 A.D. to 1,600 A.D.) villages as well as Paleo-Indian (10,000 B.C. to 8,000 B.C.) mounds have been found throughout the area including along the river. I mentioned this briefly in a past post regarding Native Americans in the Douglas County area here.

The book also mentions Buzzard's Roost Island and describes it as one of the most important archaeological sites in northwest Georgia.

If you take at look at the maps you can see it right where the borders of Fulton, Cobb, and Douglas Counties meet along the river.

Franklin Garrett speaks of "The Creek village of Buzzard Roost" stating it "lay along the southeast bank of the Chattahoochee River at a point approximately one mile below the mouth of Utoy Creek in territory which would become Campbell County in 1828 and was annexed to Fulton in 1932."

I have seen the island referenced in various treaties the Creek and Cherokee Nations made with the government regarding boundaries, so I decided to research it a bit more.

It just seems natural the Creeks would have settled near the island as it became a crossing point in the river - part of the Sand Town Trail - said to be one of the oldest "roads" in the southeast. The Indian trail went all the way out towards present day Alabama and was used by natives and then later pioneer settlers. In fact, today's Cascade Road follows the old Sand Town Trail.

East - West trails such as the Sand Town Trail typically crossed waterways at the Fall Line or close to it because the streams were shallow making a better place to cross. Travelers sometimes were able to wade across.

I've searched many records looking for a description of the Creek settlement at Buzzard's Roost/Sand Town, but haven't found any extensive research....yet.

The Treaty at Indian Springs of January 8, 1821 mentions Buzzard's Roost as a geographic feature stating "beginning on the east bank of the Flint River, where Jackson's line crosses running thence up the eastern bank of the same along the water's edge to the head of the principle western branch; from thence the nearest and direct line to the Chattahoochee River, up the eastern bank of said river along the water's edge to the Shallow ford where the present boundary line between the State of Georgia and the Creek Nation touches the said river, provided, however, that if the said line should strike the Chattahoochee River below the Creek Village Buzzard's Roost, there shall be a set-off made so as to leave the said village within the Creek Nation."

I located another description offered by Wilson Lumpkin in April, 1821...four months after the Indian Springs agreement. Lumpkin would go on to be a governor of Georgia, but in 1821 he was responsible for addressing treaty line disputes with the Creek Indians. He was sent out to Buzzard's Roost area to gather information and report back to then Governor Clark. Lumpkin wrote to Governor Clark what was likely one of the few, if not only visual accounts of a river trip from Buzzard's Roost up to Standing Peachtree (site of present day Atlanta).

Lumpkin's report says:

"From the Buzzard Roost village to the Standing Peachtree I estimate the distance of fifteen miles - this is computed more by the Indians. I found some difficulty in arriving at this village, in determining on the correct course. For several miles on the river, these improvements, is the most striking appearance of a town, the buildings being more compact in this, than any other part of the settlement. But there is no appearance of Capital, Town-house, or public square about the place...."

I know. Lumpkin's report doesn't give the kind of description I want either, but he does confirm there were buildings, dwellings, etc., and the place wouldn't have looked like a town as we would recognize it.

Other sources describe the Sand Town/Buzzard's Roost settlement with cornfields planted along the river and scattered dwelling structures here and there stretched for one miles north and south from the island on both sides of the river.

It's just as hard to find documented trips to the island today. I did find one website with pictures and a slight description here. The site states, "The island has a big beach and a good amount of interior woods to walk." The "beach", of course, is on the Atlanta side of the island when you look at the satellite image from Google.

I would imagine the trees on the island are old.

I would love to hear from any readers who have done any exploring on Buzzard's Roost Island or might have a story or two about it!

I'll keep gathering information about it as I run across it, of course.

The Forgotten Town of Campbellton

Map of Campbell County, Georgia....1830

 Yesterday was one of those nice lazy days spent with family and friends that you want to bookmark and remember for a very long time.  We sat at my sister’s house under her lovely portico and watched a steady stream of traffic coming and going from the Cotton Pickin' Fair down at Gay, Georgia   Like many along the route Dear Sister had filled her front yard with several odds and ends in hope that the fair goers would stop and load up on some new found treasures.

We never actually made it down to the fair……

Who really needed to go all the way down to Gay when both sides of the road in Dear Sister’s little crossroads of a community was filled to capacity with crafts, odds and ends, signs that exclaimed boiled peanuts and funnel cakes as well as any other item that could be sold.    Seriously, if you could conceive it you would have found it on the side of the road meandering south from Fayetteville towards Gay, Georgia.

Of course, the draw for me wasn’t yard sale after yard sale.  It had something to do with my niece being town, something to do with getting to see the newest edition to the family as well…..a sweet little baby boy.  Then there was the promises of the grilled feast my brother-in-law can produce….sitting around with friends….and enjoying the down home locale where my sister and her husband now make their home. 

And what a home it is…...    I have to admit I’m drawn to Dear Sister’s home….a turn of the century house with lots of character and hints of history that we have yet to discover.  No, it’s not hard for me to  cross the Chattahoochee River and head south at all when that invite is extended.

Our route home was lit by the Supermoon.  I swear we could have turned off the headlights and still could have made our way home.  

Wasn’t the moon beautiful….so big and bright?   

We headed back into Douglas County along State Route 92, and as we approached the four way crossing at Charlie’s Market I couldn’t help but notice how bright the remaining features of the town of Campbellton were…..the Methodist Church on my left with its old graves , the old Baptist Church cemetery up the hill on my right along with Campbellton Lodge No. 76 F & AM which dates to 1848. 

I made a silent wish I could look up on that hill and see the old Campbell County Courthouse with the moonlight bouncing off the window panes, but no matter how hard we wish sometimes…..they just can’t come true.   The old courthouse was torn down many years ago.

As we zoomed across the river I turned back towards Campbellton and noticed how the moonbeams lit up the river making a path right through the middle of the water.   I was overcome with sadness at that moment….mourning the town that had been along the banks of the Chattahoochee River , and I recalled a description Atlanta’s esteemed historian Franklin Garrett had penned in his book Atlanta and Its Environs.  

Garrett said, Old Campbellton, upon its eminence overlooking the Chattahoochee with its brick courthouse, masonic hall, academy, and ante-bellum homes gleaming through the avenues of magnolia, myrtle, or cedar, were doomed.  Most of its old families drifted off to other places, including the newer railroad towns of Fairburn and Palmetto.   Weeds rioted and choked neglected flower gardens.   Rows of comfortable homes, once housing a population of some 1200, fell into decay.  The Masonic Lodge Hall was deserted.  For two decades the red brick courthouse stood dark and silent the habitation of owls, bats, and ghostly memories of better days, until it was mercifully dismantled.   The names upon mossy tombstones in the Methodist churchyard and the old Baptist cemetery are the only remainder of the once flourishing and beautiful town, the site of which, since 1932, has been in Fulton County.

So, how did Campbellton basically become a ghost town of sorts?   Here’s a little regarding how it all played out……

Campbell Count was named for Colonel Duncan G. Campbell.   Part of Campbell’s claim to fame is he helped to negotiate the Treaty of Indian Springs – the treaty where the Creek Nation ceded a portion of their land including the land that would become Campbell County.

If an initial settler in the area – Judge Walter T. Colquitt – had gotten his way the county seat for Campbell County would have been established on his property at Pumpkintown eight miles south down the river, but an online publication by the Chattahoochee Hills Historical Society states another judge – Francis Irwin – offered his eight acres of undeveloped land [along the river]….with an added incentive for free lots for prospective builders and inhabitants….

By 1829, establishment of the county government began in earnest with the creation of a judicial system and the appointment of James Black, Jesse Harris, Robert O. Beavers, Thomas Moore, and Littleberry Watts as electoral commissioners and county organizers….and by 1835, streets and lots in Campbellton were surveyed and [ready for construction].

Eventually, the town would have a courthouse, doctor’s office and pharmacy, academy, hotel, blacksmith, stores, lodge hall, post office and many homes.

One of the homes I’ve pictured below….

The Latham Home....Campbellton, Georgia

It’s known as the Latham Home and per this webpage it was built in the 1830s.   You might remember it…I know I do.   You could see it from Charlie’s Market .  Built in the 1830s it faced Old Campbellton Fairburn Road which crossed the Chattahoochee via the ferry.  Around 1958 the old road was closed and a new road was cut behind the home going to the new Chattahoochee Bridge (that we cross today).

In his book The Courthouse and the Depot:  The Architecture of Hope in an Age of Despair Wilbur W. Caldwell discusses a Coweta County account that relates in 1830, Samuel Keller moved from Newnan to Campbellton ‘lured by expectations’ of steamboats on the Chattahoochee River.

Yes!  Steamboats!

   

Can you imagine?

Chattahoochee Hills History mentions there were high hopes for the rich loamy soil [ which did make the area successful agriculturally, but] there were also high hopes for the Chattahoochee to become a major transportation and shipping channel in the region….but the river proved to be shallow and difficult to navigate.

Caldwell also mentions something from a Troup County history source that recalls in 1831 Colonel Reuben Thompson brought a load of goods upriver from West Point to Campbellton,  but just the one trip can be confirmed.   The dream of a Chattahoochee navigable all the way up to Atlanta persisted well into the second half of the twentieth century, but it was never to be.

The death sentence for the town of Campbellton came about per most sources when the Atlanta & West Point Railroad failed to be built through Campbellton.  The line went through Fairburn, Georgia instead.    Many local sources state the citizens of Campbellton refused the railroad, but Caldwell states, a quick look at the terrain ‘on the banks of the Chattahoochee’ reveals some pretty rough country for railroad building while the natural ridge at Fairburn is flat and inviting.  Thus it seems unlikely that the opinions of the citizens of Campbellton had much influence on the survey of the Atlanta and West Point Railroad.

Even so…the loss of the railroad meant a slow death for Campbellton over the next several years beginning in 1870 when as Caldwell reports the citizens of Campbellton moved to Fairburn in droves.  One local account relates Campbellton residents were dismantling their homes and moving them as well.  The town had close to 1200 citizens at its peak, but by 1860, only 239 white citizens still remained.

The original courthouse in Campbellton was wooden, but was eventually replaced with a brick structure.  The picture below was taken in 1914 after it had been neglected for several years per this webpage.  

A local man – Robert Cook – bought the building and dismantled it.   He used the materials to build a barn on his property along Cedar Grove Road.

All that remains of old Campbellton today is Campbellton United Methodist Church  and even though the Baptist church building is not original to the town the cemetery is original. The Baptist church faces what once was the town square where the courthouse stood.   Both Union and Confederate soldiers rest in the cemeteries.  Close to the Baptist church stands the Beaver home – a Greek Style farmhouse which was taken over by Union soldiers when they crossed the river at Campbellton during the Civil War.   The house sits across from where the original Campbell County Courthouse stood. 

You might be asking yourself why I’m discussing a dead town that lies on the Fulton County side of the river today, but back in 1828 Campbell County extended beyond the river into what is today Douglas County.   In fact, Douglas County was created from Campbell County in 1870.  You can read more about that here. 

Many of our county’s forefathers were citizens of Campbell County long before they were citizens of Douglas County.  

The long forgotten town of Campbellton IS important to Douglas County history…..it is our beginning.